Driving Iceland’s Snaefellsnes Peninsula in July

On DAY TWO of our July road trip in Iceland, we saw: Bjarnarfoss waterfall, Vatnshellir Cave Tour, Djúpalónssandur Black Sand Beach & Gatklettur (Arch Rock), Saxholar Crater, Kirkjufell and Kirkjufellsfoss, Hvammsfjordur, Erpsstadir farm, and Saeberg HI hostel.

Bjarnarfoss
Bjarnarfoss, as seen from route 54

 8:20am–On the road!  We woke up to thick mist and light rain, cooked eggs & toast in our rented cabin at Tradir Guesthouse, loaded everything into the car, and started driving west along route 54 on the Snaefellsnes Penninsula. It was a 15 minute drive to our first stop, Bjarnarfoss waterfall.

Tradir Guesthouse
The cabin we rented at Tradir Guesthouse was private, serene, & perfect! (shower, kitchen included)

8:35am–Bjarnarfoss waterfall—Bear Falls is right by road 54, where the main road splits to Fróðaárheiði leading to Ólafsvík in the northern part and to Búðir and Arnarstapi on the south shore of the peninsula; there’s a large, gravel parking spot. Bjarnarfoss was deserted & peaceful at that early hour & we were the only ones present in the drizzle. Bjarnarfoss trail

Captivated by the falls, we walked up the paths and about the picturesque cascades of water and groves of small trees & bush while birds wheeled and called overhead. Picnic tables & the general elevation of the falls gave every indication that on a day that was not fog-soaked, the view of the surrounding farmland and sea would be splendid.

We’d next drove about 20 minutes west along route 574 to Lóndrangar Viewpoint, where we briefly stopped to snap a soggy photo and enjoy Iceland’s special summer dampness before proceeding for three minutes’ drive to Vatnshellir.

Ghost of Lóndrangar
Lóndrangar

9:50am–Vatnshellir Cave Tour—This 8000 year old lava tube is located about 25 minutes west of Bjarnarfoss, just before the junction of route 54 & 574.  On the day we visited, the easy 45 minute spelunking tour had drawn a crowd of 17 folks.Spiral stairs into Vatnshellir By the 10am start-time, the wind was heavily gusting, with droves of drizzle attacking us aslant. We were relieved to descend the subterranean, spiral staircase to explore the ancient lava tube & get out of the weather!Weird lava formations inside Vatnshellir The porous volcanic rock of the cave means there are absolutely no echoes whatsoever… a rather uncanny experience. We’d booked the tour in advance, which proved necessary; drop-ins were turned away, due to the popularity of the tour. Descending into VatnshellirAs our group exited Vatnshellir, the next tour was about to begin–with an astonishingly large crush of people.  From Vatnshellir, it was then about 6 minutes’ drive west along route 574 to Djúpalónssandur.

11:15am–Djúpalónssandur Black Sand Beach & Gatklettur—The amazing sea stacks at Djúpalón resemble an elf church and a kerling, or troll woman, but when we visited, they were hidden behind heavy cloaks of fog, with only dark shadows suggesting their existence. Chunks of twisted metal scattered across the black volcanic sand beach from the tragic 1948 wreck of the English trawler Eding, add to the sombre atmosphere created by Svörtulón or the Black Lagoon, just behind the beach. 

Eerie Black Lagoon at Djupalon
Svörtulón or the Black Lagoon

The Aflraunasteinar – Steinatök or lifting-stones, on the “black pearl” beach were apparently used to measure the strength of fishermen in Iceland, centuries ago– we didn’t attempt to lift them!

Aflraunasteinar - Steinatök or lifting-stones. They were used to measure the strength of fishermen in Iceland
Aflraunasteinar – Steinatök or lifting-stones

The rock formations on the trail to the beach include Gatklettur, Rock Arch. If not for the combination of gusting icy wind & rain, we could have easily spent upwards of 40 minutes here.

 

From Djupalon, it was then about 12minutes driving west along 574 to Saxholar Crater.

12:10pm– Saxholar Crater—We ate a pre-packed lunch in the car at the base of the crater, in the red-gravel parking lot which is visible from the road, and waited for the rain & wind to die down.  The 15 minute staircase-climb up the amazingly red crater must surely on a clear day provide a stunning view of the surroundings, but all we could see was fog-soup. Staring into the bowl of the crater was a little anticlimactic after the suspense-building climb… but still worth the effort.Saxholar crater stairs Plan to spend about 30 minutes here (or slightly more, if you’re having a picnic lunch in the car!) We then drove about 40 minutes east along route 574 & 54 to Kirkjufell.

1:10pm–Kirkjufell and Kirkjufellsfoss –Here, the weather cleared up, and we gleefully spent ample time taking far too many photos of this iconic, most photographed-in-the-world waterfall and mountain, just because we could take photos since the fog was gone! Kirkjufell and KirkjufellsfossView of Kirkjufellsfoss from the foot of the falls

We then continued east along the now-dirt route 54, having circumnavigated the Snaefellsnes Peninsula.  The road was in great shape for a dirt road and was easy to drive in our 2wheel drive car. From Kirkjufellsfoss, it took us about 1 hour 40 minutes to reach our next destination, Erpsstadir, but the drive along the fjord of Hvammsfjordur with its many tiny islands, flanked by green farmland that was in turn dotted with red-roofed white farmhouses, made for a very pretty drive.

Beautiful view of Hvammsfjordur from route 54
Bucolic Hvammsfjordur

When we reached the T-intersection for route 60, we turned right and continued on to Erpsstadir.

4pm–Erpsstadir—This roadside dairy farm on route 60 (closes at 5pm) is the perfect spot to stretch the legs & sample some local ice-cream.  David tried a generous scoop of ice-cream made from fresh Icelandic blueberries, which wasn’t gaggingly sweet like the corn-syrup-dense  ice-creams that plague North America. I debated between a dandelion ice-cream and a small tub of thick skyr with rhubarb syrup and chose the skyr, which was thick and tart; the sweet rhubarb syrup complimented it perfectly.

Pet lamb roaming around Erpsstadir
A pet lamb wandering around Erpsstadir

Then it was a 1 hour 10 minute drive down route 60 between impressive cliffs riven with tumbling waterfalls, to route 1, where we headed north to Saeberg HI, located on Rejkjaskolavegur Road.

Rejkjaskolavegur Road
Rejkjaskolavegur Road

6pm:   Saeberg HI hostel– Sæberg/Farfuglaheimili HI Hostel, Reykjaskólavegur, 500 Stað. We checked into our tiny private cabin by the sea, where we cooked up a veggie stew in the quaint little kitchen and ate by the window while watching a flock of ducks & ducklings bob about the shore.  We thought we might check out the hot tubs after dinner… but the icy rain and wind made us decide otherwise. Overall, the weather hadn’t dampened our spirits in the least: even without blue skies and views of glaciers, there was so much to see, do, & photograph that we had enjoyed a splendid day.Our tiny cabin at Saeberg HostelInside the quaint cabin

TIPS:

For Vatnshellir Cave Tour, go first thing in the a.m., before the rush, and pre-book. Dress warmly; the cave is very cold, year round.

For booking a private cabin at Saeberg Hostel (great for self-caterers & those who prefer a private shower/toilet) you have to book at least 5 months ahead. Same for Tradir Guesthouse!

For Snaefellsnes Peninsula, there are few grocery opportunities for self-caterers.  When you leave Reykjavik, stock up in the grocery stores at Borgarnes before continuing on.

For our 6 day itinerary, click here.

Details about Day One, click here.

Bicycle rental in Celebration, Orlando Florida

With the crowds, giddy rides, and dizzying blasts of music, a break from Disneyland during a vacation in Orlando is not only desired, but for some of us, utterly necessary.  On one such day, we chose to swim with manatees (see my blog here).  More boardwalksOn another day, instead of just sitting pool-side at the hotel, a visit to Disney’s nearby idyllic town of Celebration offered over 10 miles of scenic bike trails through shady boardwalks, alongside picturesque lakes, and through peaceful, postcard-pretty neighbourhoods that are almost traffic-free. Celebration Town Centre from across the lakeLocated about 10 minutes away from Disneyland (4.3 miles) along West Osceola Parkway, the town of Celebration is a picturesque planned community located alongside Lake Rianhard. Boasting gift shops, ice-cream parlours, and lakeside cafes, it’s a quiet haven for time away from Mickey Mouse madness.
Lakeside cycle path

Cycling alongside Lake Evalyn

We rented bicycles from Kissimmee Bike Rentals,  located in the parking lot beside the striking Bohemian Hotel.  All bicycle rentals come with a trail map (see below) and a bottle of ice-cold water, and the rental charge is darn-right cheap… which is a nice break from Disneyland’s mortgage-your-house prices. 

Bohemian Hotel
The Bohemian Hotel

Once upon our wheeled steeds, we meandered through Celebration along the network of trails, with stops for photos and ice-cream. We saw sunbathing alligators alongside several of the lakes en-route, as well as herons, snakes, turtles and, first thing in the morning, two deer and a fawn nimbly picking their way through a grove. Because there are so many trails, you can make your bicycle route as long or as short as you wish.  Shady green boardwalksOur ride also took us through quiet residential villages that looked so American with their verandas, flower-boxes, and Adirondack chairs, it seemed as if we were on a movie set.

After our ride, we ate at the lakeside Avocado Mexican Grill, a short walk from the bicycle rental stall, which had a menu that suited not only the teen and the carnivore, but the vegetarian as well. celebration-florida-trail-list

Kleifarvatn and Graenavatn lakes, Seltun, Eldborg volcanic caldera, Gerðuberg Basalt Columns, Tradir Guesthouse.

5:30am: Land in Keflavik!–Our 6 day July road trip in Iceland started with our flight from Vancouver landing half hour early, so by 6:30 a.m., we’d picked up our rental car from Avis and were already on the road. Located inside the airport, the Avis rental counter is very handy compared to the majority of car rental agencies, which are located at a nearby building block that requires a shuttle to reach. (Avis is kind of pricey, though, unless you have collected “points” with them).

Fields of lupins 'round the outskirts of Reykjavik
Fields & fields of wild lupines around the outskirts of Reykjavik

6:40am: Kleifarvatn, Seltun, and Graenavatn!–In the drizzle, wind, and heavy mist, we headed in the direction of Reykjavik on route 41 & turned off near Hafnarfjordur, onto route 42, a winding, picturesque drive through a moonscape of lava fields, with the rounded peak of Helgafell purportedly in the background (we couldn’t see it for the heavy mist).Kleifarvatn Kleifarvatn is an impressive lake in a volcanic fissure, bordered by black-cinder sand shores. The lake was silent and eerie, and in the heavy drizzle, impossible to do justice to in a photograph. Next we continued down route 42 to Seltun, a geothermal field bubbling and hissing with sulfuric volcanic vents. SeltunSeltun is drenched in the “Icelandic” smell of rocks dissolving in super-heated sulfuric acid, reminiscent of old boiled eggs.  Just south of Seltun is Graenavatn, a beautiful green lake that fills an old explosion crater.  We reached it by 7:50am and breakfasted on trail mix from home.

Graenavatn
David, poised to fly over Graenavatn

From Graenavatn, we retraced our way up route 42, back to 41, skirted outside Reykjavik, then headed north along route 1 to Borgarnes, about 1 hour 45 minutes’ drive away.

En-route to Borgarnes
Roadside waterfall, Route 1, on the way to Borgarnes

10:00am  Borgarnes!–Despite the cold drizzle, we walked about the quiet little town, first to Skallagrimsgardur, the burial mound of the father and son of saga hero Egill Skallagrimsson.

Burial mound
Skallagrimsgardur

We met only one person on our drizzle-soaked rambles, a local strolling a section of the scenic promontory adjacent to Borgarfjordur.

 

11:00am-Settlement Centre!–Shivering and wet, we ducked into the warmth of the Settlement Centre and spent a mesmerizing hour weaving our way through the audio-narrated museum. We were both stunned and captivated by the outrageous stories surrounding Egill Skallagrimsson and his often violent life.

In the fascinating Settlement Centre
In the fascinating Settlement Centre

12:00noon–We were very hungry by now, and not just a little dazed with jet lag, so paid the exorbitant fee to eat at the Settlement Centre in the quaint cafe upstairs, where we fell on the salad buffet like a pair of starving rabbits. Then we stocked up on groceries for the week at Bonus, a grocery store at the edge of the fjord bridge coming into town, and headed northwest up route 54 to the Eldborg volcanic caldera.

Walking to Eldborg
Walking towards Eldborg (note the winter clothing, despite the fact that it’s July)

2:30pm–Eldborg volcanic caldera! Approximately 40 minutes from Borgarnes, we turned off Road 54 to the farm Snorrastaðir (GPS Points N64° 47′ 46.523″ W22° 19′ 20.593″) to view the Eldborg crater.  The walk to the crater meanders along a lovely stream, awfully muddy when we visited, in very pretty farmland.

Snorrastaðir
Snorrastaðir

The trail actually leads away from Eldborg for quite a distance, skirting the farmer’s land and wending through scrub, bush, and lava field, before actually leading to the crater.  Unless you’re a very brisk walker, it is not a quick side-trip to Eldborg–about a 45 minutes’ walk there, and 45 minutes back. We only strolled along the stream to stretch our legs, as jet-lag was really setting in. Several days later, we rented a little plane and we flew over Eldborg.

Aerial of Eldborg
Aerial of Eldborg

3:45pm–Gerðuberg Basalt Columns!–About 10 minutes away from Eldborg on the western edge of the Snaefellsnes peninsula, along route 54 and then a short 1km detour along a dirt road, were the impressive basalt columns of Gerduberg, rising up from the ground like a dwarfish fortress.  The wind here just about knocked us over.  We spent over an hour photographing the striking steeples and turrets and meandering along the base of the rocks.

Gerðuberg
Gerduberg

5:30pm–We bought gas at the next station, right at the start of the Snaefellsnes peninsula, and drove to Tradir Guesthouse, 356 Snaefellsbaer.  In an immaculate, cozy cabin right by the sea, we cooked dinner, wandered the secluded, quiet seashore, and deemed Day One a fantastic start to our Icelandic adventure.

img_0861a
Private cabin with kitchen, Tradir Guesthouse

Tips:

Road signs are small and subtle in Iceland; having an approximate ETA at a destination is helpful for knowing when to keep an eye-out for the next humble little sign.

Picking up supplies in Borgarnes is essential if you’re self-catering on your road trip on the Snaefellsnes peninsula, as there are no grocery stores.

Booking guesthouses/hostels at least 5 months in advance is necessary; Iceland is very popular.

For Day Two of our 6 day itinerary, click here.

Six day July road trip in Iceland

Rain, fog, high winds, and teeth-clattering temperatures that required toques & down jackets beneath our rain gear: this wasn’t the Iceland I remembered from previous trips.  This was my third summer-time visit, and my hubby’s first, and we both had a challenging time reconciling the weather with photos of pristine glaciers under a blue sky.  The cloud ceiling was so low and the gusting drizzle so fierce, the country could have been flat as a pancake, for all we could see of it. Regardless of the weather, there were a myriad of spectacular sights: impressive craters, stunning waterfalls, lunar lava fields, weird rock formations, and multi-hued earth that bubbled with volcanic heat. On the fifth day of our trip, the weather did clear, gracing us with wonderful sunshine. Our itinerary for the 6 sight-packed days (and blog posts for each activity):

Day One: Kleifarvatn and Graenavatn lakes, Seltun (geothermal field), Eldborg volcanic caldera, and the Gerðuberg Basalt Columns.

Day Two: the Snaefellsnes peninsula–Bjarnarfoss waterfall, Djúpalónssandur Black Sand Beach, Vatnshellir Cave Tour, Saxholar Crater, Kirkjufell and Kirkjufellsfoss, and Erpsstadir dairy farm.

Day Three: the Vatnsnes peninsula– Ánastaðarstapi & Hvitserkur rock formations, Illugstadir, Borgarvirki Viking fortress, Kolugljufur waterfall, Glaumbaer Turf house & historic farm, and Akureyri.

Day Four: Godafoss waterfall, Skutustadagigar craters, Dimmuborgir lava field, Grjótagjá cave, Myvatn Nature Baths, Detifoss waterfall, and flight from Akureyri to Reykjavik.

Day Five: Reykjavik airport, airplane rental, & self-guided flight to Stykkishólmur and back; Tjornin Lake in Reykjavik.

Day Six: Geysir, Gullfoss, Kerið (lake in a crater), and then Keflavik airport to return home.

There are about 335,000 people in Iceland, though that swells to an astonishing million or more each summer due to visiting tourists. And there’s a good reason why so many visit: the country is truly spectacular. There’s a plethora of information available on the Internet about where to go and what to see, but I’ve provided precise driving times in my blog to help when you’re planning what to see, but are wondering how long it will take at each stop and how long that gravel road really does take to drive.  Plus, of course, Day Five has the unique details about renting a plane and flying yourself in Iceland (pilot license required, of course!)Tjorn Lake with Hallgrimskirkja